DebConf7/Tartan

Second Order

This table shows those that are part of the second order (which went ahead on 27th March 2010) for 80 yards of cloth. If you add yourself to this list please confirm with phil at hands dot com.

Name	email	Item(s)	Yards	DC10	DC11	Phil's Notes
Elmar Geese	e.geese@tarent.de	6yd machined kilt	6			GPG
Fabio Rosciano	malmostoso@gmail.com	6yd machined kilt	6	no		delivered
Manoj Srivastava	srivasta@debian.org	8yd hand-sewn	8	(yes)		delivered
Stefano Zacchiroli	zack@debian.org	6yd machined kilt + 4yd machined short skirt-kilt (lady's) for gift	10	yes		delivered
Christoph Egger	christoph@debian.org	6yd machined kilt	6	(no)		GPG - (bank)
Andy Simpkins	andyATkoipond.org.uk	8(9?)yd hand-sewn	8-9	(no)		250.00 deposit
maddog	maddogATli.org	8yd hand-sewn	8	yes		delivered
Paul Adams	adams@kolabsys.com	9yrd hand-sewn	9	No		Full price paid
Steve McIntyre	steve@einval.com	3 yds tartan (material only)	3	n/a		np
Wouter Verhelst	w@uter.be	some yards of material (unless someone else wants it more badly than me :-)	??	yes
Bill Thompson	billtATmahagonny.com	6 yds (material only)	6	no
Sam Hartman	hartmans@debian.org	6 yds machined kilt	6	no
Neil Williams	codehelp@debian.org	6yd machined kilt	6		yes
Matthew Sweet	msweet@einval.com	8(9?)yd hand-sewn	8-9		no
		Ties (2m == between 4 & 8 ties)	~6	yes
Totals:			77+

Small Items

To express an interest in small items (i.e. Ties), please add you name here:

Name	email	Tie(s)	notes
Bernd Zeimetz	bernd@bzed.de	1
Stefano Zacchiroli	zack@debian.org	1	$USD 25.00 [PAID]
maddog	maddogATli.org	1	$USD 25.00 [PAID]
Simon Ruggier	Simon80@gmail.com	1
Paul Heaney	paul AT sitracker.org	1
Bill Thompson	billt AT mahagonny.com	1
Adrian von Bidder	cmot AT debian.org	1	c/o Giacomo @DC10
Manoj Srivastava	srivasta@debian.org	1	@DC10 [PAID]
Paul Adams	adams@kolabsys.com	1
Guido Trotter	ultrotter@debian.org	1	@DC10
Tom Marble	tmarble AT info9.net	1	@DC10, paid
Andrew McMillan		1	@DC10, paid
maddog	maddogATli.org	4
Jose Antonio Quevedo	joseantonio.quevedoATgmail.com	1	@DC11 [PAID]
Markus Feilner	mfeilner@linux-magazin.de	2

Prices

Hand-sewn, 8 yard kilt	£456.50
Machined, 6-yard kilt	£332.00
Ties	£20.00
Cloth (33" wide)	£25.00 per yard
Machined, 4-yard, skirt-kilt (lady's)	£250.00-ish
Waistcoat	£120.00-ish
Ladies shorts	???
Ladies Mini-skirt	???

The skirt-kilt and Waistcoat have not been ordered in the second batch so these are guestimates based on the first order. The shorts and miniskirt were mentioned in passing by Lesley -- she prefers shorts because they're more "comfy" -- she didn't mention prices, but I (fil) can ask if you're interested

Check if the larger of your waist or seat measurement is over 46" (measurement guide), then you need an extra yard of cloth for kilts, which for machined kilts will cost £30.00 more for the cloth and stitching -- hand-stitching costs more, but I don't know how much, ask if it's relevant to you. I imagine women's skirts are different again.

Prices are based on an order for a half-piece (i.e. 80 yards) for which the weavers charge £1920.00 (£24.00 per yard). The length woven can vary as it shrinks an unpredictable amount when washed and treated after weaving. The cost to make each kilt (CMT) is £285.00 for the hand sewn kilt and £225.00 for the machine sewn kilt. On this occasion we've negotiated a 10% discount from these prices making it £256.50 or £202.50 respectively.

Things that you might want to know:

The tartan:

We have it rendered large or if your browser scaled that and makes it ugly, try small

The size of that is such that the pattern will repeat about every 10 inches (with slight variation due to the vagaries of weaving).

The colours on my monitor actually provide a reasonable match to the finished cloth, but monitors vary, so no guarantees there.

When instructing a weaver, it's worth making sure that they get the cloth the right way round, so that when made into a kilt, the morse will read left-to-right and top-to-bottom, rather than bottom-to-top as it is in these images -- they got it right on the first run, but remember they're not used to having to worry about such things, so it's worth reminding them.

The copyright on the pattern resides with Hands.com Ltd., having been assigned from Geoffrey (Tailor). I'm happy to distribute it under the GPL and/or write to any weavers that question their right to use it assuring them that they can. Obviously given that Geoffrey (Tailor) did a good job the first time round, and are familiar with the issues involved in getting it right, I'd suggest using them.

Notes about the tartan design:

It's predominantly red, to reflect the red from the logo, made of two shades of red to give a gradation towards the middle (the nearest thing I could get to a swirl in a plaid) the blue is "Electric Blue" which makes sense, since we wouldn't get far without electricity, and can be said to be a reference to Captain Blue Eye, there's a fair amount of black, and a little yellow, as a nod towards Tux, and the white spells out DEBIAN in morse (with a correct 1:3 ratio for dots to dashes, and for the pauses in and between letters).

Also, unusually (although not uniquely) for a tartan, it's not symmetric. The morse section does not repeat in reverse, so while it still looks like a fairly conventional tartan (if a little busy in the morse section) we don't get the reversed morse (which the designer helpfully pointed out would spell "ANIVEU" ;-). This means that the morse section can be made relatively larger without increasing the overall size of the sett.

Tartan Registration

By dint of the registration with The Scottish World Tartan Register mentioned below, we have been grandfathered into The Scottish Register of Tartans which gained its Royal Assent in 2008.

Here is a copy of the original SWTR certificate -- number: 3210

Geoffrey (Taylor) kiltmakers and weavers

These are the people that tidied up the original idea for the tartan into the design we ended up with, and are also the people that wove the first batch of tartan, and kiltmaking. They are also tailors, so can provide all the other bits of highland dress if you want to go for a full outfit.

Cloth

The cloth costs between £26.00 and £17.50 per yard (depending on quantity ordered). If less than 80 yards is ordered a setup fee is also charged, £400 as at April 2010). The cloth is about 29" wide. It's 16/17oz pure wool worstead. They teflon-coat the cloth as part of the finishing process to make it more stain-proof, which is very high-tech, eh?

Fitting sessions: London, New York & Scotland

Geoffrey (Taylor) offer a fitting service type thing in London. They are also occasionally in New York, and of course they have offices in Edinburgh, Glasgow and Oban.

21st Century Kilts (TFCK)

TFCK is a spin-off of Geoffrey (Taylor), which others somewhat less traditional touches, such as adding back pockets, for phones, PDAs and the like. They also do detachable front pockets for kilts which, having seen Howie (the chap who setup TFCK) wearing some on Saturday, I must say look pretty odd, but each to their own, so maybe some of you would like to entertain such options.

If you have flash (unlike me) you may be able glean something from their web site. I note that among other things they do aircraft-style belt buckles, which seems like a laugh, for those moments when you need to dump your kilt on the floor in a hurry :-)

The back pockets are done so that they can be folded away inside the the kilt, so that if you're wearing it as evening wear it doesn't interfere with the look of the thing. The front pockets are removable. The prices for those that are interested are:

Back Wallet pocket	£15
Back Waterbottle/PDA pocket	£20
Back phone/key pocket	£10
Extra inside pocket one may already be included -- not sure	£10
Front Pockets (removable)	£75

Ties

It seems that the making-up fee for ties is £6.50 the tie makers managed to make 10 ties from 3.5m of cloth, which comes out at £16.00 per tie cost to us.

The material is rather heavy for ties, but apparently it is possible to make a decent tie, but you may find that it takes somewhat more effort than usual to achieve a neat knot.

VAT

The prices quoted by Geoffrey (Tailor) are all inclusive of 17.5% VAT, which people exporting the their kilt may be able to reclaim.

Past and Future Orders

Future Orders

Please note: The at the time of the first batch the weavers setup cost was £300.00. The prices quoted for kilts etc that were part of the Initial order did not include that cost. On the other hand, those prices are based on a per-yard cost of £25.00/yd, whereas the price charged for the cloth can drop to as low as £17.50 if two full pieces (320 yards) are ordered. For the first order, we used that discount to cover most of the one-off costs (tartan design, setup & registration) with the balance being paid by Hands.com Ltd. as part of their sponsorship of Debconf. For subsequent orders, you'll need to cover the weaver's setup costs yourself, although they'll normally hide it in the £25.00/yd cost as long as you get at least on half piece (80 yards).

People perhaps interested at a later date:

Name	email	Item(s)	Yards	Budget for Overheads
Jonas Öberg	jonas@fsfe.org	8yd hand-sewn, plus 2yd spare	10	£40
Julia Freeman	kitty@contextshift.eu	a machined short skirt-kilt, sash as well from spare fabric	4	£40

Initial Order

This information is preserved for comparison purposes with subsequent orders:

Name	Item(s)	Yards	Confirmed (GPG mail)	Measured
Anthony Towns	Kilt (machined) tie perhaps	6 ?*	Yes
Bdale Garbee	Kilt (machined) tie	6 ?*	Yes	Yes
Keith Packard	Kilt (machined)	6	Yes	Yes
Kurt Roeckx	Kilt (hand-sewn)	8	Yes	Yes
Luca Capello	Kilt (machined)	6	Yes (noGPG)	Yes
Luke Leighton	Kilt (hand-sewn) Daft Hat	8 2	Yes (no GPG)	Yes
Mark Brown	Kilt (hand-sewn)	8	Yes	Yes
Mark Shuttleworth	Kilt (hand-sewn)	8	Yes	Yes
Mark Taylor	Kilt (machined)	6	Yes (phone)	Yes
Natalie Mayer-Hutchings	Kilted-Skirt	5	Yes (noGPG)	Yes
Neil McGovern	Kilt (hand-sewn)	8	Yes	Yes
Paul Sladen	enough cloth to make a Breacan Feile	10	Yes (IRC)	N/A
Philip Hands	Kilt (hand-sewn)	8	PGH	Yes
Pierre Thierry	Kilt (machined)	6	Yes	Yes
Steve McIntyre	Kilt (machined)	6	Yes	Yes
Sven Mueller	4yds material tie	4 ?*	Yes	N/A
Wouter Verhelst	5yds material	5	Yes	N/A
Ties*		4.5	PGH
lucky last-minute-orders
Matthew Edmondson	Kilt (machined)	6	Yes	Yes
Guido Trotter	Kilt (machined)	6	Yes	Yes
Teemu Hukkanen	Kilt (machined)	4+2	Yes	Yes
Total Yardadge:			120.5

Weaving Completed

Kevin Campbell has taken some photos and a movie of the weaving in progress -- and Moray Allan took some more photos

As you can see from the fact that we got two extra kilts at the last minute, they actually wove 13.5 yards more than expected (well they wove the right amount, but it shrunk less than expected when being finished) so in the end we could stretch to two extra machined kilts and be left with about 18" of spare cloth

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