DebConf7/Tartan
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[edit] Interested People:
[edit] Initial Order
| Name | Item(s) | Yards | Confirmed (GPG mail) | Measured |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Anthony Towns | Kilt (machined) tie perhaps | 6 ?* | Yes | |
| Bdale Garbee | Kilt (machined) tie | 6 ?* | Yes | Yes |
| Keith Packard | Kilt (machined) | 6 | Yes | Yes |
| Kurt Roeckx | Kilt (hand-sewn) | 8 | Yes | Yes |
| Luca Capello | Kilt (machined) | 6 | Yes (noGPG) | Yes |
| Luke Leighton | Kilt (hand-sewn) Daft Hat | 8 2 | Yes (no GPG) | Yes |
| Mark Brown | Kilt (hand-sewn) | 8 | Yes | Yes |
| Mark Shuttleworth | Kilt (hand-sewn) | 8 | Yes | Yes |
| Mark Taylor | Kilt (machined) | 6 | Yes (phone) | Yes |
| Natalie Mayer-Hutchings | Kilted-Skirt | 5 | Yes (noGPG) | Yes |
| Neil McGovern | Kilt (hand-sewn) | 8 | Yes | Yes |
| Paul Sladen | enough cloth to make a Breacan Feile | 10 | Yes (IRC) | N/A |
| Philip Hands | Kilt (hand-sewn) | 8 | PGH | Yes |
| Pierre Thierry | Kilt (machined) | 6 | Yes | Yes |
| Steve McIntyre | Kilt (machined) | 6 | Yes | Yes |
| Sven Mueller | 4yds material tie | 4 ?* | Yes | N/A |
| Wouter Verhelst | 5yds material | 5 | Yes | N/A |
| Ties* | 4.5 | PGH | ||
| lucky last-minute-orders | ||||
| Matthew Edmondson | Kilt (machined) | 6 | Yes | Yes |
| Guido Trotter | Kilt (machined) | 6 | Yes | Yes |
| Teemu Hukkanen | Kilt (machined) | 4+2 | Yes | Yes |
| Total Yardadge: | 120.5 | |||
[edit] Weaving Completed
Kevin Campbell has taken some photos and a movie of the weaving in progress -- and Moray Allan took some more photos
As you can see from the fact that we got two extra kilts at the last minute, they actually wove 13.5 yards more than expected (well they wove the right amount, but it shrunk less than expected when being finished) so in the end we could stretch to two extra machined kilts and be left with about 18" of spare cloth
[edit] Second Order
This table is for people who missed the boat to register their interest, awaiting critical mass for a second order:
| Name | Item(s) | Yards | Budget for Overheads | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Julia Freeman | kitty@contextshift.eu | a machined short skirt-kilt, sash as well from spare fabric | 4 | £40 |
| Ray Carter | ray@rcarter.net | 6yd machined kilt | 6 | |
| Jonas Öberg | jonas@fsfe.org | 8yd hand-sewn, plus 2yd spare | 10 | £40 |
| Elmar Geese | e.geese@tarent.de | 6yd machined kilt | 6 | |
| Fabio Rosciano | malmostoso@gmail.com | 6yd machined kilt, some spare to make a scarf or a tie | ~8 | £40 |
| Manoj Srivastava | srivasta@debian.org | 8yd hand-sewn | 8 | £40 |
| Totals: | 42 | £160 (so £140 to find) | ||
Please note: The weavers setup cost is £300.00. The prices quoted for kilts etc on this page does not include that cost. On the other hand, those prices a per-yard cost of £25.00/yd, whereas the price charged for the cloth drops to £19.00 for orders over 75 yds. For the first order, we've used that discount to cover most of the one-off costs (tartan design, setup & registration) with the balance being paid by Hands.com Ltd. as part of their sponsorship of Debconf. For subsequent orders, you'll need to cover the weaver's setup costs yourself, and you can pocket the 75yd discount yourselves too if you get that many of you together.
[edit] Things that you might want to know:
[edit] The tartan, once again:
We have it rendered large or if your browser scaled that and makes it ugly, try small
The size of that is such that the pattern will repeat about every
10 inches (with slight variation due to the vagaries of weaving).
The colours on my monitor actually provide a reasonable match to the finished cloth, but monitors vary, so no guarantees there.
When instructing a weaver, it's worth making sure that they get the cloth the right way round, so that when made into a kilt, the morse will read left-to-right and top-to-bottom, rather than bottom-to-top as it is in these images -- they got it right on the first run, but remember they're not used to having to worry about such things, so it's worth reminding them.
The copyright on the pattern resides with Hands.com Ltd., having been assigned from Geoffrey (Tailor). I'm happy to distribute it under the GPL and/or write to any weavers that question their right to use it assuring them that they can. Obviously given that Geoffrey (Tailor) did a good job the first time round, and are familiar with the issues involved in getting it right, I'd suggest using them.
[edit] Notes about the tartan design:
It's predominantly red, to reflect the red from the logo, made of two shades of red to give a gradation towards the middle (the nearest thing I could get to a swirl in a plaid) the blue is "Electric Blue" which makes sense, since we wouldn't get far without electricity, and can be said to be a reference to Captain Blue Eye, there's a fair amount of black, and a little yellow, as a nod towards Tux, and the white spells out DEBIAN in morse (with a correct 1:3 ratio for dots to dashes, and for the pauses in and between letters).
Also, unusually (although not uniquely) for a tartan, it's not symmetric. The morse section does not repeat in reverse, so while it still looks like a fairly conventional tartan (if a little busy in the morse section) we don't get the reversed morse (which the designer helpfully pointed out would spell "ANIVEU" ;-). This means that the morse section can be made relatively larger without increasing the overall size of the sett.
[edit] Prices
| Hand-sewn, 8 yard kilt | £420.00 |
| Machined, 4-yard, skirt-kilt (lady's) | £237.50 |
| Machined, 6-yard kilt | £270.00 |
| Waistcoat | £113.00 |
| Ties | £25.50 or less, probably -- they don't quite know how much cloth each will take. |
| Cloth (33" wide) | £25.00 per yard |
Check if the larger of your waist or seat measurement is over 46" (measurement guide), then you need an extra yard of cloth for kilts, which for machined kilts will cost £30.00 more for the cloth and stitching -- hand-stitching costs more, but I don't know how much, ask if it's relevant to you. I imagine women's skirts are different again.
[edit] Scarfs
I need to check, but it may be possible to make some sort of scarf out of the off-cut from a kilts, particularly if there's someone who's got little legs, and so needs their kilt trimmed quite short -- if not, I need to have an idea of what you (Dann) were after, and I'll ask the tailors what they can come up with
Don't worry about it, I've removed my request. Thanks though! --DannFrazier
[edit] Ties
It seems that the making-up fee for ties is £5.00 but the tie makers are uncertain of the number of ties they'll be able to make out of each length of material. It could be as little as 2 ties per 1.5 yards, but perhaps will rather more. That gives a maximum price of about £24.00, with that dropping if they manage to achieve better efficiency.
The material is rather heavy for ties, but apparently it is possible to make a decent tie, but you may find that it takes somewhat more effort than usual to achieve a neat knot.
[edit] Cloth
The cloth costs £25.00 per yard, and is about 33" wide, so if you have a use for some extra, just say the word. It's 16/17oz pure wool worstead. They teflon-coat the cloth as part of the finishing process to make it more stain-proof, which is very high-tech, eh?
[edit] Geoffrey (Taylor) kiltmakers and weavers
These are the people that tidied up the original idea for the tartan into the design we ended up with, and are also the people that wove the first batch of tartan, and kiltmaking. They are also tailors, so can provide all the other bits of highland dress if you want to go for a full outfit.
[edit] Fitting sessions: London, New York & Scotland
Geoffrey (Taylor) offer a fitting service type thing in London. They are also occasionally in New York, and of course they have offices in Edinburgh, Glasgow and Oban.
[edit] 21st Century Kilts (TFCK)
TFCK is a spin-off of Geoffrey (Taylor), which others somewhat less traditional touches, such as adding back pockets, for phones, PDAs and the like. They also do detachable front pockets for kilts which, having seen Howie (the chap who setup TFCK) wearing some on Saturday, I must say look pretty odd, but each to their own, so maybe some of you would like to entertain such options.
If you have flash (unlike me) you may be able glean something from their web site. I note that among other things they do aircraft-style belt buckles, which seems like a laugh, for those moments when you need to dump your kilt on the floor in a hurry :-)
The back pockets are done so that they can be folded away inside the the kilt, so that if you're wearing it as evening wear it doesn't interfere with the look of the thing. The front pockets are removable. The prices for those that are interested are:
| Back Wallet pocket | £15 |
| Back Waterbottle/PDA pocket | £20 |
| Back phone/key pocket | £10 |
| Extra inside pocket one may already be included -- not sure | £10 |
| Front Pockets (removable) | £75 |
[edit] Tartan Registration
By dint of the registration with The Scottish World Tartan Register mentioned below, we have been grandfathered into The Scottish Register of Tartans which gained its Royal Assent in 2008.
Here is a copy of the original SWTR certificate -- number: 3210
[edit] VAT
The prices quoted are all inclusive of 17.5% VAT, which people exporting the their kilt may be able to reclaim.
